Talking Hot Rods, repairs and sharing information.
I have over 35 years of FOMOCO knowledge, Ford electronic and electrical repairs,electric part overhauls, rear axle repairs, specialized Ford repairs, trim work, heating and air conditioning--the list goes on ASCCERTIFIED IN
ASC Certified in 1973
Friday, January 21, 2011
Monday, January 10, 2011
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Sunday, January 2, 2011
HOLIDAY TIMES ARE A KILLER,NO TIME TO DO ANYTHING
A VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!! Lets hope we all have a better and safer New Year and for our TROOPS also.May they all be safe.
Well these times are for family and friends,and of course shopping.Hot Rods somehow have to take a back seat for a while,while other priorities are placed ahead.
I had to undo the front motor mounts and drop them slightly so I could achieve almost a zero degree angle on the trans.I came out at 1+ at the trans rear.I started to mock up the 9 inch housing with a pumpkin to see about where I was in relation to the center of the whole thing.Nothing in the rear housing is tacked yet.I installed jack stands and blocks with a 0 degree to see what it looked like.
Once it is all tacked up, we want the rear to be aprox. 2 degrees less than trans,as when accelerated the rear tends to go up.You need about 2 deg.plus or minus in order to make the u joints needles bearings and grease to rotate.If not,you will get premature wear,and possible vibration concerns.I've read just about all the info on this subject I could find,and it seems everyone has an opinion.I just went on what sounded and what everyone has in common and am going with that.Most of the best information comes from driveshaft and rear end assembly manufactures.They seem to the information down to a science.Can't much argue with that,huh?
Am ready to mock up the 4-link system and will post pictures of progress.[yeah, I snucked in the garage when no one was lookin]and did some some work,but not much.Man It was cold as in Maryland in late Nov.&Dec.Had to buy one of those propane heater units that mount on top of a propane tank.Seems to work well,The 2 element unit holds about 20 hours of pretty good heat when set at the medium setting.You have to set it about 10 ft. or so from where you are,to stay comfee! Takes a long time to try to head a 44 ft. garage with no insulation.
Anyway, pictures to come tommorow of the rear being fitted in relation to the rest of the drive.
Paisano
Well these times are for family and friends,and of course shopping.Hot Rods somehow have to take a back seat for a while,while other priorities are placed ahead.
I had to undo the front motor mounts and drop them slightly so I could achieve almost a zero degree angle on the trans.I came out at 1+ at the trans rear.I started to mock up the 9 inch housing with a pumpkin to see about where I was in relation to the center of the whole thing.Nothing in the rear housing is tacked yet.I installed jack stands and blocks with a 0 degree to see what it looked like.
Once it is all tacked up, we want the rear to be aprox. 2 degrees less than trans,as when accelerated the rear tends to go up.You need about 2 deg.plus or minus in order to make the u joints needles bearings and grease to rotate.If not,you will get premature wear,and possible vibration concerns.I've read just about all the info on this subject I could find,and it seems everyone has an opinion.I just went on what sounded and what everyone has in common and am going with that.Most of the best information comes from driveshaft and rear end assembly manufactures.They seem to the information down to a science.Can't much argue with that,huh?
Am ready to mock up the 4-link system and will post pictures of progress.[yeah, I snucked in the garage when no one was lookin]and did some some work,but not much.Man It was cold as in Maryland in late Nov.&Dec.Had to buy one of those propane heater units that mount on top of a propane tank.Seems to work well,The 2 element unit holds about 20 hours of pretty good heat when set at the medium setting.You have to set it about 10 ft. or so from where you are,to stay comfee! Takes a long time to try to head a 44 ft. garage with no insulation.
Anyway, pictures to come tommorow of the rear being fitted in relation to the rest of the drive.
Paisano
Thursday, November 11, 2010
ENGINE AND TRANS MOUNTS ARE IN
| Right Side Motor Mount & Frame Plate |
| Rear View Trans Being Centered To Frame |
After looking and measuring,looking and measuring,man must have been 40 times.Like in woodworking,measure twice ,cut once.I ran a string down the center of the engine mains,through the hollow trans,down to the rear cross member and to the front one.
I than had the string on the center line of frame and checked all sides to see how much clearnace I would have.The right side of the block is slightly closer to the frame than drivers side,but centered.Sometimes this happens cause of engine/trans configuration and lenghts.Main thing is to make sure that the Rear Tail Housing is going to be in center with the rear axle center.You do not want a driveshaft that is going to be out of line.I then tacked the motor mount plates to the frame and sliped the rear trans crossmember in for support and tack-up.Here are some photos showing the motor mount plates in relation to the frame and steering box,etc.Seems I have enough room in the front of the engine,for the pulleys and everthing else that's going to go there[I hope].
Everything is tacked welded on,will finish the weld up when everything is where its going to be in its final mock up.
Next thing is going to be install the 9" Ford rear and the 4 link system that I'll be welding up.Probably starting that up by the end of the week,if things go well.
Paisano
| Drag Link,Steering Rod & Panard Rod Set Up |
| Left Side Motor Mount & Locator Plate In Relation to Vega Box/Oil Filter Mount |
| Right Side Trans Mount & Crossmember |
| Driver Side View Of Steering Set Up |
Monday, November 1, 2010
Friday, October 29, 2010
TRIED OF SEEING POLICITAL ADDS,ESPECIALLY ON MY SIGHT !!!
SORRY FOLKS,IT WAS NOT MY IDEA OF PUTTING POLITICAL ADVERTIZING ON MY SITE.IF I HAD A WAY OF REGULATING WHAT THEY ARE PUTTING ON,I SURE AS HELL WOULDN'T HAVE IT ON THIS SITE..THERE IS NO PLACE FOR THESE CLOWNS,ON THIS SITE,LET THEM FIND THEIR OWN CIRCUS! I'LL BE GLAD WHEN TUESDAY IS OVER AND ALL THOSE OLD BUMS GET VOTED OUT & THE NEW BUMS GET VOTED IN
ONCE AGAIN I APOLIGIZE FOR THIS CRAP.
PAISANO-THE FLYIN WOP 10/29/2010
ONCE AGAIN I APOLIGIZE FOR THIS CRAP.
PAISANO-THE FLYIN WOP 10/29/2010
Thursday, October 21, 2010
SLIPPING THE BLOCK & TRANS IN FOR A FIT
Well Panhead Phil let me borrow his "Cherry Picker".So I decided to give it a shot and see how the block/trans would fit between the frame rails.This is only a test fit and nothing is writen in stone yet as I'm checking clearnaces.
Well Panhead Phil let me borrow his "Cherry Picker".So I decided to give it a shot and see how the block/trans would fit between the frame rails.This is only a test fit and nothing is writen in stone yet as I'm checking clearnaces.
Examples -where my hand is holding the new billet oil filter pick-up.It seems that it will interfere with the steering box.This billet pickup is better,bigger oriffices and yet its about an 1" shorter.Hard to believe,eh?
I moved the block back a little further and cleared that,Now the trans is hitting the back top cross member as you can see by the flicks.A little more mod to the cross member will be easier than trying to clear a steering box,
Right?This is not the block that's going to be used for the car.The real block is under wraps.
| This is a real nice piece I'm holding here |
| There's those "Model's Hands" again |
| This cross member is hitting the tailshaft housing perventing the engine from sitting straight up.It's 9 degrees tilt down in the rear. |
| Solid Motor Mounts |
Next step will be to cut the motor mounts plates that weld onto the sides of the frame and rear trans mount,which I had previously taken out so the trans would move around a little better while jocking it around.Anyway the block/trans is 9 degrees off and needs to be stright and parallel.You should try to correct this cause you will need not only to have a straight shot [AND I DO MEAN STRAIT]! to the rear axle system.Can't be more than a few degrees off.IF not, it will vibrate,and you will have handling and U-JOINT problems.
The engine needs to have the intake manifold and fuel system as straight as possible to keep everything [fuel ]
going to all the places it should, right.
Paisano
| 9 degrees more engine trans needed |
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
TAKING UP THE VEGA BOX,ETC
Last Saturday morning,Panhead Phil & Homer came over,with Panhead's "cherry picker" so I can use it next week to set the motor and mounts in.Then we all headed up to Reading,Pa with my son for the Toyo Nationals.[I still consider it the Keystone Nationals].It just sounds right,you know what I mean?BEtween the 3 of us,Homer,Panhead and myself-The Flyin Wop,there is over 100 years of FOMOCO knowledge.So I guess we have a fair amount of know how when it comes to talking automobiles and how they are made to run.
Here are some pictures of Homer&Panhead inspecting my work,making sure everythin's looks ok before we headed out to the Nationals.
Paisano-The Flyin' Wop
| Paisano with one of America's Finest Pssst-that's not my beer there! |
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