I have been fabricating the driver's & right side "Toe Boards". Lot of bending around on the right side making clearance for the bell housing area and where the starter mounts. A C-6 transmission is not exactly what you would call small,in comparing to a C-4.

This is being made with 16-18 gauge,as this is part of the floor system.

Later everything will be covered with a heat shield/sound absorbing material as to dissipate a "Hot Foot."

Driver's side toe board

Lots of tack welds and grinding off the welds makes this a time consuming  project.

C-6 trans clearance is at a minimum 

Close up of left side board.

Right toe board is shaped different than left for starter area clearance.

Well'l be pulling the motor mock up soon so I can finish  the outside section of the firewall.

Well,the weather in Maryland sucks right now. I've been making the frame for the fuel cell & battery,which will go in the trunk area,and be bolted down to the body mounting points.

Here's a  bottom view from the Battery hold down side down to the other side

This is what the system looks like complete

The system is very rigid and should move or vibrate when it will be bolted down.Here are a couple flicks of the setup.It is made of square tubing with cross bracing.
The fuel cell itself is a twenty gallon system measuring approx, 24 /1/2 x 20 . Its an RCI unit.

Well as winter is getting us in the butt,and the daylight hours are starting to get longer,maybe we might see the end yet to cold weather,or lets hope for any old how.Been working on the car off and on routinely.Got some progress on it [pictures to come].
I been searching for some cool wheels for the rear and after looking at what seemed to thousands.I finally found and ordered what I wanted.These wheels were ordered one week before last Thanksgiving week and I just got them about 2 weeks ago.Man I thought they would never get here.But to me it was worth the wait.
They are just about the closest I've seen that look closest to the old 

USA made Radir Wheels

Size 15 x 12

Has 4.25 " Backspacing

Ansen/Hilabrad Sprint wheels from the early 60's. They are made in the USA and they are one piece allumimum,size 15 X12.[big boys].
Shopping for the right rubbers for them.We'll see what happens.

Lost Daytona Coupe history

These are a couple of pictures of support bars that are tack welded to on of the front braces I weld to the inside upper cowl area from left to right.
The bars are extended to the the rear approx. 8-10  inches  from the rear window.area.

This shot angle shows the tubes anchored to the rear area.

I heated the top tube a little and bent it down a bit as to take the pressure off the tube pressed
against the bottom one.This also takes pressure off of where they are tacked on each end.

The alignment tubes are a couple pieces of "black" tubing I had around and tacked on to the front
Just make sure they are fairly straight.

The purpose is to keep the body from flexing and distorting from welds and moving around.I will test fit the door before and after the supports are tacked in.

Lot's of cuts made in order to shape these  around the body door frame area.The amount of cut is determined by how easy it is to bend evenly without going all the way through.
They will be welded back up or strength welds added to nocthes

Happy Hallowean to everyone.Haven't a lot of time lately to do anything with this site,but I have been working on the coupe.Considering that in the olden days of "YORE" the inside of the door posts supports were made of wood.That is what they used to attach door hinges,etc, to the body.Well besides termites and almost 80,years on it,this is either gone to termite heaven or its petrefied.
Got some steel  square tubing which is almost perfect for this type of modification.Note-did you know that "square" tubing is actually rounded on the 4 corners? This is for strength,not to make it easier on your dainty hands.Round tubing has more strength because the load is place evenly,square is not.That's why is has rounded corners,cool hah?

Right & left side made almost identical.Took about 2 hours to make as it was constant back and forth from fitting on body than to the saw.The less amount of notches,the less welding back up and time saved.

The pieces of tubing helps keep the panel with distribution.Don't want to have vise grips crush on this.
The beams go on the top inside of this and down by the hinges.I'll try to get a better flick of this.

Anyhow picture shows what a chop saw can do,verses having to do this by hand.I made both door inner inner area on body.Cut and hand formed these to fit around openings.Thes cut secections will be welded up again when final fit is done.Then they will be tied into the body by welding in place.this will make it real ridid and give the hinges a good place to mount to.

Hot Rod Gals....

kuntz and company 527ci Fe

WFTP Annual Labor Day Car Show

WFTP Annual Labor Day Car Show



THIS IS A KIT FROM DIRECT SHEETMETAL




A LITTLE TRIMING IS REQUIRED,NUTTIN'PREFECT GOING INTO A 79 YEAR OLD CAR




Well,its been a while since I last posted.Been busy doing other things not related to this site.Not that I wanted to.Let's hope I can get back on track. I'm still waiting for my cylinder heads & intake to come back from the machine shop.Been a few months now.The man is really backed up.Anyway I not in a big hurry.I been in the process of doing the  front floor boards.I takes a little cutting as they have differant applications for motor/trans and whatever else you have under them.Not a whole lot of modification,just a little patience & scrachting of the head required.



MY FATHER HAD MADE THE FLOOR FROM CENTER TO REAR BY HAND IN THE 60'S
THEY  LOOK GREAT.
THANKS,OL' MAN!