Got it up on its side so I could do some finish welding.could not have done this without Panhead Phil's cherry picker. I tell you what,this sure to me anyway is the best way I know to do this when you are by yourself without another hand to help out.

Up on its side for finish Welds

 It sure helps getting decent welds on which not only is safer and better,they also come out real pretty good looking also. I must confess,that while bringing the frame back down on to jack stands when I was done,that it slipped on me and got the top of my foot.Yeah,the damm thing fell on my foot,and really swelled up for a couple days.What can I say,man,it was worth it and do it again if needed too.
Thanks for looking & comments always welcome.
Paisano

Using an angle engine locator chain system really helps with leveling and securing frame on jack stands.

"Moving", Stopping right along!

Started to install the brake pedal & master cylinder brackets.Had tacked them on first so to make sure that they stayed inline to each other.The angle looks right,so I will be finishing up the welds on this soon,when I put the frame up on its side.

Paisano

The master cylinder and booster brackets mounting

This one shows the pedal swing arms in relation to the booster.

Strike 3 and Yor' out!

I can't tell you how many times I had to move and reposition the battery box and the fuel cell mounts. Considering that the car does not have a trunk,I got the bright idea that I could use some storage space back there.So I bought an Army surplus motor box that about 2' long and about 7" wide. Then I modified the  can's opening so the lower part of the door would stay on without falling off. This worked great and it protects the fuel cell from possibly any contact from the battery.

Damm,am I  smart or what?

I can't tell you how many times I had to modify this $%#^&*^ fuel tank support system. 

Once the body was removed it was time to really  concentrate on the frame.First I decided to do was make a removable rear spreader so I can later weld some brackets for the "nerf" bars.This is made from 1x1-1/2 tubing with 2 ends welded on and drilled for 2 3/8" bolts on each side

.It's made with the wide end parallel to the top of the frame for strength. 
This should be ok and serve as a bumper support and tag plate holder for later.

Well haven't had a whole lot of time lately to do anything.Had some health issues and been taking it slow.It's a bitch getting old,but here goes.I have been able to do a little work on the car.Here's a couple pictures of the finished floor and trans hump area.

Did it by hand,roller,tire, hammers and lot of "CUSSING"

All this is hand formed and hand made.I used things like a tire, bead roller to make a radius and make slight lips in the metal.Later I will cut out a hole for the trans linkage and shift handle.

After that,I had to wait a few weeks for my son and his strong friends,to come over and pull the body off again.Now made a body holding fixture on caster so i can move the body around with ease.it makes it real easy now to roll and get to other parts of the shop quick.Used  some 1x 1-1/2 tubing and welded it up almost like a lazy wedge shape so I can access things like body mounting holes and the rocker panel my father had made.33 Fords didn't have these,and without fenders you can see part of the frame rails.That was a nice touch he did back in 65-66.I didn't recall anyone having these back then when they ran without fenders.

Any pros or cons about this blog are appreciated.Maybe we can all learn a little bit by it.Till next  post.

Thanks,Paisano

445 FE 390 in '68 Mustang

I have been fabricating the driver's & right side "Toe Boards". Lot of bending around on the right side making clearance for the bell housing area and where the starter mounts. A C-6 transmission is not exactly what you would call small,in comparing to a C-4.

This is being made with 16-18 gauge,as this is part of the floor system.

Later everything will be covered with a heat shield/sound absorbing material as to dissipate a "Hot Foot."

Driver's side toe board

Lots of tack welds and grinding off the welds makes this a time consuming  project.

C-6 trans clearance is at a minimum 

Close up of left side board.

Right toe board is shaped different than left for starter area clearance.

Well'l be pulling the motor mock up soon so I can finish  the outside section of the firewall.

Well,the weather in Maryland sucks right now. I've been making the frame for the fuel cell & battery,which will go in the trunk area,and be bolted down to the body mounting points.

Here's a  bottom view from the Battery hold down side down to the other side

This is what the system looks like complete

The system is very rigid and should move or vibrate when it will be bolted down.Here are a couple flicks of the setup.It is made of square tubing with cross bracing.
The fuel cell itself is a twenty gallon system measuring approx, 24 /1/2 x 20 . Its an RCI unit.

Well as winter is getting us in the butt,and the daylight hours are starting to get longer,maybe we might see the end yet to cold weather,or lets hope for any old how.Been working on the car off and on routinely.Got some progress on it [pictures to come].
I been searching for some cool wheels for the rear and after looking at what seemed to thousands.I finally found and ordered what I wanted.These wheels were ordered one week before last Thanksgiving week and I just got them about 2 weeks ago.Man I thought they would never get here.But to me it was worth the wait.
They are just about the closest I've seen that look closest to the old 

USA made Radir Wheels

Size 15 x 12

Has 4.25 " Backspacing

Ansen/Hilabrad Sprint wheels from the early 60's. They are made in the USA and they are one piece allumimum,size 15 X12.[big boys].
Shopping for the right rubbers for them.We'll see what happens.

Lost Daytona Coupe history