These are a couple of pictures of support bars that are tack welded to on of the front braces I weld to the inside upper cowl area from left to right.
The bars are extended to the the rear approx. 8-10  inches  from the rear window.area.

This shot angle shows the tubes anchored to the rear area.

I heated the top tube a little and bent it down a bit as to take the pressure off the tube pressed
against the bottom one.This also takes pressure off of where they are tacked on each end.

The alignment tubes are a couple pieces of "black" tubing I had around and tacked on to the front
Just make sure they are fairly straight.

The purpose is to keep the body from flexing and distorting from welds and moving around.I will test fit the door before and after the supports are tacked in.

Lot's of cuts made in order to shape these  around the body door frame area.The amount of cut is determined by how easy it is to bend evenly without going all the way through.
They will be welded back up or strength welds added to nocthes

Happy Hallowean to everyone.Haven't a lot of time lately to do anything with this site,but I have been working on the coupe.Considering that in the olden days of "YORE" the inside of the door posts supports were made of wood.That is what they used to attach door hinges,etc, to the body.Well besides termites and almost 80,years on it,this is either gone to termite heaven or its petrefied.
Got some steel  square tubing which is almost perfect for this type of modification.Note-did you know that "square" tubing is actually rounded on the 4 corners? This is for strength,not to make it easier on your dainty hands.Round tubing has more strength because the load is place evenly,square is not.That's why is has rounded corners,cool hah?

Right & left side made almost identical.Took about 2 hours to make as it was constant back and forth from fitting on body than to the saw.The less amount of notches,the less welding back up and time saved.

The pieces of tubing helps keep the panel with distribution.Don't want to have vise grips crush on this.
The beams go on the top inside of this and down by the hinges.I'll try to get a better flick of this.

Anyhow picture shows what a chop saw can do,verses having to do this by hand.I made both door inner inner area on body.Cut and hand formed these to fit around openings.Thes cut secections will be welded up again when final fit is done.Then they will be tied into the body by welding in place.this will make it real ridid and give the hinges a good place to mount to.

Hot Rod Gals....

kuntz and company 527ci Fe

WFTP Annual Labor Day Car Show

WFTP Annual Labor Day Car Show



THIS IS A KIT FROM DIRECT SHEETMETAL




A LITTLE TRIMING IS REQUIRED,NUTTIN'PREFECT GOING INTO A 79 YEAR OLD CAR




Well,its been a while since I last posted.Been busy doing other things not related to this site.Not that I wanted to.Let's hope I can get back on track. I'm still waiting for my cylinder heads & intake to come back from the machine shop.Been a few months now.The man is really backed up.Anyway I not in a big hurry.I been in the process of doing the  front floor boards.I takes a little cutting as they have differant applications for motor/trans and whatever else you have under them.Not a whole lot of modification,just a little patience & scrachting of the head required.



MY FATHER HAD MADE THE FLOOR FROM CENTER TO REAR BY HAND IN THE 60'S
THEY  LOOK GREAT.
THANKS,OL' MAN!



527 cubic inch 427 Ford SOHC on the dyno - 870 Horsepower!

GETTIN' TIRED OF WINTER " HONEY DO" LIST



A FEW NICKS, BUT THE WORKING PARTS ARE GOOD



A LOOK AT WHERE THE SHAFT WILL SLIDE IN

 Just about finished with the inside house winter projects that my wife was wanting me to catch up on.Can't really blame her to tell you the truth.You may believe that sometimes we live in the shop,but then the rest of the house goes to hell.Got a chance to take the cylinder heads to Ladds Porting Service for a up grade and to have the tunnel wedge intake matched to the heads.I have a set of stainless intake and exhaust valves to be used in the valve job process.I picked up on a fair priced deal on a new set of Comp Cams Roller Rockers through e-bay a while back.They have a few scracthes on them, and have a set of super strong rocker shafts,and rocker supports to help keep everything in a straight line.I was told the head work would take a a month.He has a great reputation around these parts.It's okay as I'm in no rush.
I got the body square on the frame and bolted down so it won't move.I'll be welding inside support bars this coming week and be shooting a lot of pictures showing how we are gonna acomplish the process.
Paisano

MAN,I'M GLAD THE HOLDIDAYS ARE OVER !!!



BOUT CLOSE AS I CAN GET HER



Ok folks,its over with the holidays,and my fat butt needs to be moving around. Getting tired of ideas and not doing anything about them.I'm in the process of trying to bolt down the body to the frame and one side seems to be off about 1/2 ".Think this is due to maybe the body being taken off before,[more times than I can remember],and I know damm well that it had to have shifted.The reasoning behind all this is that I never really tack welded any support braces to keep everything in line before the body came off to sit around for a period of time.I feel like a real Bozo for this and I should have known better.

I been using a Porta Power trying to move the body back into its frame location.I think I have it pretty square.I took the front body mounting bolts and cut the heads off and rounded the cuts around with a grinder to look like dowls.After taken a close look I figured that I  have to enlongate the body bolt holes a little to be able to access the frame locating bolt holes,This will probably be ok as long as the doors fit ok and besides,I know that others have run into this before.If not,I don't think they are being honest.

Once I get this clamped and bolted down,I gonna weld some channel  inside body at a few locations to keep everything in line and square.The shots of the rear end housing and distance are just about perfect and looks real good.I'm gonna weld the motor mount plates to the frame as well.We want to get this back as far as possible,with sacrificing inside room,as this will be a cruiser and Paisano needs a few creature comforts.

Anyhow,I had to cut a portion of the floor my father had made for it years ago.He's probably rollin' in his grave and cussing me up a storm,as all this was hand made and welded up with accelaline.Sorry Ol' Man,your son F**KED Up Again.

Here's a few pictures to show rear axle location and real close prox. [can't spell proximity?] of where the FE[that's Ford jargon for big block] is gonna sit.Sorry that I haven't posted sooner on this site.I have running errands for Father Joe,[he says I'm his favorite].YIPPIE!!!!

PRETTY MUCH DEAD ON 112"



HOW CAN PAISANO ENTERTAIN HIS BEER DRINKIN' FRIENDS AT THE FLYIN WOP'S ROD SHOP AND DISCO PALACE WITHOUT A PROPER COCTAILTABLE.
MADE IT FROM SOME SCRAP PARTS AND PLYWOOD