I Final sand

 Been a while I know, but here are pictures taken of final sand hopefully ready for sealing coating.t All  parts sanded and epoxed. Will been cleaning up any undercarriage overspray and put on the masking paper and this coming weekend.

Got a new format trying to figure how to post pictures ,sorry 

Thanks for viewing, comments good and bad welcome.

Just keep it clean, thanks, Paisan

I GOT WAY AHEAD OF MYSELF

Anyway I forgot to show some pictures of frame mods. Every thing that you are locking at was bent cut, fitted and welded by myself. A lot of work ,and frustrations involved here, but at the end, you get some satisfaction that you are the one who did this. I have a lot more photos to load and I will putting them up. 

Any questions or comments, weather good or bad, are welcome, Maybe I could learn something, thanks  PAISANO.

There's not a whole lote of room under this ,once you start to add things to it.

Picture of the right front spindle and steering links.

If I remember right, the rear shocks are mounted at an angle of 18-21 degrees. This gives a fairly good ride plus good traction. 

   
 

The start of the wiring process and component mock ups

• 

Well now that the body is bolted down to the frame and insulation installed its time to start the wiring process. I'm starting from the rear and working my way forward. the tail lights are not fully secured as the paint has yet to go on. I got a 
RON FRANCIS -BARE BONES-KIT which is the kit which has the minimal wiring circuits in the kit.

as I intend on not having a radio and AC creature comforts, I figure I won't need them as the sound will be the all the music I will need.

 

Body Mounted.

Well it took 5 of us to get the body mounted with no big issues as for an old car. We were very careful not to bend to screw up the body. I installed "DYNAMAT" to the whole inside of body. This stuff is great and not real difficult to install. It took me a while but it came out well. When you tap on the body it sounds like a dull thud, real solid. It not the cheapest stuff but hopefully it will keep heat and down down. 
 

Under Epoxy now mounting to to frame for final fit

Just A Car Guy: Ed Roth's trikes

Just A Car Guy: Ed Roth's trikes

These are pictures of  mounted wheels and rubber with no weight other than basically a bare mock up block and hollow trans case with a rear housing. The rear coilover springs are 150 lb. rating. From the ground up the total so far of the car is 60".

It will sit dramaticly lower when real weight is added. The main reason that it is rolling is that the my wife and I have sold our home of 28+ years and have a much more smaller home being built. It will have a larger garage however,and should be ready by mid spring. The complete garage,tools,benches etc. and of course the coupe has been in storage since mid  October. Man I hated to do that but the house was just too much for us anymore and it was time to move on. 

W

MAKING HOLES AND NOT IN MY HEAD [GOT ENOUGH ALREADY]

Frenching the light housings.

Been a good while getting back to posting anything on this blog,but I have been making progress. I had had these Nerf bars for a good while now. they are made of billit aluminum and were a little too tall. I cut 2 upper holes off and polished them down a bit. they look alot better and bldend well with the lower body

The tail lights are from a 59 Cadillac and are "frenched" into the lower pan. I had to use a 3- 5/8" hole saw to make the initial cut,and a lot of filing and shaping to get "that" certain look I when going for. Welding was a long process due to the curves and shape,didn't want to warp the body,as the body metal was thinner than the light housings.

I found the light housings on "Speedway" they weren't cheap but were a time saver.Being a dumb ass,I forgot that I had a  sheet metal curving tool.It would have saved me a few bucks,by making them myself. they would have been of thinner metal though cause the tool can only round out up to 18-20 gauge and the Speed way housing were 14-16,much thicker,heavier material.

.

The third brake light is a Hagan product.It's an led unit,and when its finished the lense will be flush with the body and look like part of it. It get sanded down the same time as when the body gets blocked off,making a super smooth fit. coll huh?

The third brake light I started by centering the whole thing up on the roof line and centering it up on the trunk/rear window.Used the provided template,marked and cut out. Used a drill to drill a few starting points and a a saw and file to finish the hole. You have to be careful doing this cause you want the lense to fit nice and tight,with minimal gaps.

Masking tape works well when you are trying to keep straight lines.Just be careful to run measurements to make sure Nothing is perfect,not even when it looks good and true.Chances are it won't be.,believe me.

Paisano

I cut 2 of the top holes out which left 3. 

1959 Cadillac Tailights

8" third brake light.About 3/4 " wide

Inside of third brake housing. Had to modify to fit contour

Had to cut a 3  5//8" hole to work on fitting. 

Play Ball

And the start of April is in the works,and was getting tired of running the propane heater and kerosene job.
Also tired of the headaches that they bring from using up all the clean air.
The brake lines,fuel lines,return lines are plumbed.The fuel cell and related parts are mocked up. All parts are are stainless including the line brakets and screws.

Wilwood Master cylinder with vaoum booster

As the brake system is starting to be mocked up,I haven't figured out how much compression the motor is gonna have.I am taking a small precaution as to power brakes .I've installed a vacum resivior.It will be close to the booster/master cylinder system.I will hope for the best and if it doesn't work,will take the booster out.
Not enough vacum to operate a booster,gives a supper hard pedal.
Paisano

Closeup